Welcome to the World of Understandable
Fuel Injection Adjustment
#1 - General Instructions
-The SFi fuel injection module
has been designed as an universal fitment application. The advantages of
this design include a much lower cost to you, ease of dealer stocking the
product and immediate availability when new models arrive. You can even
keep your SFi for your next bike.
-The SFi looks at the fuel injection
map the same way the factory does and adjusts the map in the same way the
factory does. Therefore, our product doesn't work well with any other aftermarket
adjustments that you may have on your bike. Please remove any other systems,
downloads or remapping that are installed.
-Before installing this product
be sure you have a basic understanding of certain components and features
of your motorcycle. If you are not aware of where the factory electronic
control module (ECU) and the battery (and on certain bikes, the oxygen
sensor) are located, we seriously recommend that you have your dealership
install this product. We have designed this product to be very consumer
friendly, with easy hook-up and adjustment, but you are still working on
very sophisticated equipment that requires at least basic mechanical knowledge.
-The product is supplied with
both Scotch-lok T-tap connectors for the power and injector wires, and
the matching blade connectors to be attached to the SFi wires once they
have been cut to length. Take your time and ensure that you have made good,
solid connections. Do not tug or pull on the connectors without supporting
the wire with your other hand. If you are in doubt of which wire to connect
to (as some wire colours are similar and confusing) call us for clarification.
-The accompanying model spec
page is designed to be only a GUIDELINE for ease of installation. Wire
colours and typical pot settings have been tested and approved by our technicians.
REMEMBER, these are typical settings and may not be optimum for your bike.
Unless otherwise noted, these settings are for stock motorcycles with slip-on
exhaust only. Air intake modifications, exhaust power valve removal, baffle
removal and brand-to-brand exhaust systems will all affect your pot settings.
If you are not happy with our typical settings, then reset the pots to
zero and follow our #4-basic adjustment and #5-tuning for peak performance.
The SFi only adds fuel; so with all three fuel pots turned fully counter
clockwise, your bike should run exactly the same as without the product
installed. If this is not the case, STOP, verify that you are tapped into
the correct wires by looking at the wire colours where they enter the injector.
You will probably have to lift the gas tank to do this. The unique wire
colour at each injector is the trigger wire and that same colour wire will
appear as it enters the factory ECU which is where we generally attach
our T-tap connectors.
#2 - Mounting
-Remove seat, side covers and/or
side panels to access the factory ECU. Verify that there are exposed individual
wires accessible to attach the Ttap connectors. You may have to cut back
the wiring harness cover slightly on multi cylinder bikes to create enough
room for all the connectors. Verify the wire colours for the injector trigger
wires as mentioned in the general instructions.
-Attach a T-tap connector to
each of these injector wires. Go slowly and ensure you feel and hear a
click when the T-tap has locked around each wire. Also make sure the wire
is centrally located in its groove before applying pressure with the pliers
to lock the connectors.
-Now find the power wire. We
generally choose the tail light running wire, but any switched power will
do. That means, any wire with 12 volts that turns on and off with the ignition
switch. (European customers will have to find an alternative wire). In
most cases, the tail light harness is in close proximity to the ECU, but
obviously, pick a location for the power wire T-tap that is within reach
of the length of wire coming from the SFi.
-Pick a location for your SFi
that will accommodate the length of wires to all your T-tap connectors
and gives you ready access, usually under the seat or side cover. Once
you have picked that location, you can now cut each of the SFi module wires
to a length that comfortably allows each wire to reach the T-tap connectors.
The module red wire is the power wire, the blue wire and grey wire(s) are
the injector wires and it doesn't matter on which of the injector wires
the blue wire goes to (it is only there for diagnosis). Now, that only
leaves the ground wire (black wire). Any good ground will do; if you can
reach the negative post of the battery, that is preferred, but any solid
bolt going to the frame is accept-able. See our pictures on the website
for many applications. -Before attaching the velcro and affixing the SFi
, go to the 'trouble shooting wire connections' section.
#3 - Troubleshooting
-Remove the rubber access plug
on top of the unit and look for the 3 LED's. If the box has been wired
correctly, the green light should flash when you turn on the key (power),
and should go to steady green when you start and idle the bike. If you
have no lights when you power up the motorcycle, then either the red wire
(power) or the black wire (ground) don't have solid connections.
-The SFi unit has built in fault
detection if you incorrectly hook up any of the other wires. It uses the
green and/or red LED's, so that if the green light is flashing after the
bike is started (it is normal for the green light to flash when the motorcycle
is key on but not running), the blue SFi wire is on the wrong coloured
wire at the T-tap connector or the crimp connection at the T-tap or blade
connector isn't solid. The red light flashing tells that a grey wire connection
is incomplete. The red light error checking will not function if the green
light is also flashing, so correct the blue wire first. There is also a
flashing yellow feature that stays on for a period of time at start-up,
indicating the delay in acceleration fuel for factory cold start operation.
This is normal and should end between 5 and 20 seconds.
-If, after starting the motorcycle,
the red light is on steady, the RPM cross-over pot is in the wrong position.
Temporarily turn that pot (lower left) to the 9 o'clock position and verify
that the green light is now on.
Note: Perform these tests only
while the engine is idling. Any of the lights can and will flash during
acceleration and deceleration and this is normal.
#4 - Basic Adjustment
GREEN FUEL POT (functions like
a fuel mixture screw on a carburettor) adjusts for the motorcycle's fuel
requirement during light throttle operation from idling through highway
cruising and steady throttle. To adjust this pot, make sure the bike is
up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast
idle where it is not easy to hold a steady R.P.M. (about 2500-3000 R.P.M.
on multi cylinder, 1800-2000 R.P.M. on twins), then slowly and evenly turn
the green pot while listening to the exhaust note. You should hear the
exhaust sound change from an irregular, uneven note to a even and smooth
one. You may also see an increase in R.P.M. If you continue to turn the
pot past this point to where the idle R.P.M. starts to drop, you can then
return the pot setting back to a point half way between where the idle
first smoothed out to the idle fall off point.
YELLOW FUEL POT -(accelerator
pump feature) adds fuel on top of the green fuel pot setting whenever the
throttle is opened rapidly. You should start with this pot at the same
setting you found worked best on the green.
RED FUEL POT -(functions like
a main jet on a carburettor). Adjusts top end fuel to maximize performance
when air intake or internal engine modifications have been performed. Most
manufacturers of current bikes get the top end fuel right and most settings
will require no additional fuel to be added in this area unless modifications
have been done.
RPM SWITCH POT- adjusts at what
R.P.M. the green and yellow fuel addition stops, and the red fuel setting
takes over. This adjustment can be achieved by either picking a R.P.M.
that is 800-1000 above where you normally cruise at on the highway, or
take redline, divide by 2 and add 1000 (i.e. 9000x.5+1000=5500). Each o'clock
position of this pot equals 1000 R.P.M., so 5,500 rpm is half way between
5 and 6 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving up the bike in neutral
and watching the green light change to red at the set R.P.M
|When we discuss pot settings, the position of the arrow as it relates
to the face of a clock determines its location.
(Ignore any numbers actually on the face of the pot)
1 o'clock is minimum setting or off
11 o'clock is maximum setting
3 o'clock is the setting shown
#5 - Tuning for Peak Performance
GREEN FUEL POT- the suggested
set up for this adjustment is the same as basic adjustment. However, if
you are experiencing surging at cruise speeds or over-sensitive on-off
throttle you could try a SLIGHT increase (clockwise) on this pot. Also,
if your bike is popping or backfiring on deceleration, and you have eliminated
any possible air leaks in the exhaust, then you could also try a SLIGHT
increase in this pot. In both cases, the smallest amount of screw turning
increase that you can notice is all that is required and only increase
until the problem goes away. In relation to carb tuning, a half clock position
of this pot equals a one groove move on the needle.
YELLOW FUEL POT- this setting
requires road test comparisons to optimize your acceleration. After you
are completely happy with your green pot setting, test ride your bike in
2nd or 3rd gear, rolling on the throttle briskly and noticing the rate
of acceleration. Increase the yellow pot one clock position and repeat
the roll-on test using the same gear and starting speed. If you notice
an improvement, increase the pot setting again and re-try the test again.
Stop as soon as you feel no improvement in performance and return to the
last setting where you noticed an improvement.
RED FUEL POT- this setting is
the hardest to achieve by road testing, You can increase the setting one
clock position and run the bike up to redline in 2nd or 3rd gear from an
R.P.M. higher than your cross over pot setting (see section #4). If there
is a noticeable improvement in power try an additional clock position and
re-try your road test. Stop as soon as you feel no difference and return
to the last setting where you noticed an improvement. In relation to carb
tuning, a one clock position move of this pot equals a one main jet size
Important: On some bikes,
when adjusting the green fuel pot, any increase causes worse running, please
read our tuning issues page. Those procedures must be performed by a competent
#6 - Gas Analyser Setup
GREEN FUEL POT- holding the throttle
at a steady R.P.M. in neutral, slightly above the stock idle speed, look
for and adjust the green fuel pot to achieve a 2.5 to 3.0 percent on carbon
monoxide (CO) gauge. Ensure you give the gas analyser sufficient time to
stabilize and give a steady reading (many automotive analysers are very
YELLOW FUEL POT- once you have
set the green pot, you must be on some type of a load dyno and perform
roll-on throttle acceleration up to 4000 R.P.M.. Again, wait for the delay
but you are looking for a reading of 5 to 6 percent CO. Adjust the yellow
fuel pot to that setting.
RED FUEL POT- again on the dyno,
perform both roll on and all gear runs, starting at the R.P.M. you chose
for cross over fuel, watching for the maximum CO level achieved and adjust
the red fuel pot to 6 to 7 percent CO. An all-gear run may show half to
1 percent leaner than a roll-on and that is normal.
Model Specific Fitting Instructions
General Fitting Instructions - MS
Prices and Applications